坐在我 7 英尺 2 英寸的 Channel Islands 冲浪板上,身处 X 行星海湾的日落时分,背景是遥远的山脉,水面富有弹性且具有极高的反射感,一道 100 米高的巨浪滚滚而来,站立,右手抓板沿

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